Showing posts with label Mustang. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mustang. Show all posts
Friday, May 1, 2015
Fender Mustang Dynamic Vibrato Loose Trem Arm
One frustrating aspect of the design of the Mustang Dynamic Vibrato is how the trem arm is attached to the stop bar--the small grub screw tends to unwind itself and allows the trem arm to fall out. When this happens you have to find the right sized Allen key to tighten the screw, but this isn't always possible when you are playing. I've read about few different solutions to this problem, including modding the trem arm by filing down sides of the arm so that there is a flat surface for the grub screw to press against, filing or griding a circumferential groove in the trem arm for the grub screw, using locktite on the grub screw, or using a threaded Stratocaster trem arm which stays in the hole better. Another solution which seems to work pretty well is to remove the grub screw and use a different fastening device. Right now I am using a 10mm M5 bolt that is usually used for bicycle bottle cages or fender mounting. The diameter and thread pitch of the M5 bolt seems to be the same as the grub screw, but bear in mind that this is for a Japanese-produced Mustang Dynamic Vibrato which I assume is produced to metric standards. If you are using an original U.S.-made Mustang Dynamic Vibrato this solution might not work, although you may be able to find another bolt with English measurements that would do the job equally well. The advantage of the M5 bolt is that it has a knurled head that sticks out beyond the socket that allows you to tighten the bolt by hand whenever it starts to loosen. It also takes a 4mm Allen key is you really want to tighten it.
Monday, April 27, 2015
Fender Guitar Sales Figures 1966
Here are Fender sales figures from 1966 included in Tom Wheeler, The Fender Archives: A Scrapbook of Artifacts, Treasures, and Inside Information (Milwaukee: Hal Leonard, 2014), p. 69. If you are really into Fender history and memorabilia this is a great book. The sales figures for electric guitars and basses are really interesting considering the usual perception of what the most popular Fender models were and are today. Most striking is the number of Mustangs sold, but also that Jazzmaster and Jaguar sales were not too far behind Stratocasters and Telecasters. Although Wheeler doesn't indicate this, I assume that "Specials" include custom finishes, gold hardware, binding, etc.
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|
|
Quantity
|
Total
Quantity
|
Amount
|
Total Amount |
|
Jazzmaster
|
Regular
2254
|
|
380,241.23 |
|
|
|
Specials
1125
|
3379
|
169,514.69
|
549,755.92 |
|
Jaguar
|
Regular
2680
|
|
494,921.80
|
|
|
|
Specials
1416
|
4096
|
275,094.79
|
770,016.59 |
|
Stratocaster
|
Regular
3424
|
|
467,412.61
|
|
|
|
Specials
1955
|
5379
|
276,539.65
|
743,952.26
|
|
Telecaster
|
Regular
3174
|
|
319,875.40
|
|
|
|
Specials
1054
|
4228
|
107,163.46
|
425.038.86 |
|
Esquire
|
Regular
77
|
|
6,395.67 |
|
|
|
Specials
39
|
116
|
3,480.86
|
9,876.53 |
|
Telecaster
Custom
|
|
100
|
|
11,648.86 |
|
Esquire
Custom
|
|
5
|
|
491.30 |
|
Jazz
Bass
|
Regular
3226
|
|
428.492.56 |
|
|
|
Specials
1522
|
4748
|
212,432.70
|
640,925.26 |
|
Precision
Bass
|
Regular
4526
|
|
500,638.51 |
|
|
|
Specials
1914
|
6440
|
220,831.08
|
721,469.59 |
|
Bass
VI
|
|
41
|
|
6,596.80 |
|
Mustang
Bass
|
|
657
|
|
61,321.71 |
|
5
String Bass
|
|
253
|
|
39,957.62
|
|
12
String Electric
|
|
2593
|
|
442,255.10
|
|
Mustang
|
|
17,788
|
|
1,630,380.09 |
|
Duo
Sonic
|
|
2961
|
|
229,278.50 |
|
Musicmaster
|
|
4384
|
|
275,740.10 |
|
Mandolin
|
|
104
|
|
8,513.66 |
Labels:
Jaguar,
Jazz Bass,
Jazzmaster,
Mustang,
Precision Bass,
Stratocaster,
Telecaster
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
Original Mustang Dynamic Vibrato Setup Instructions from 1967 Fender Service Manual
Available here.
"The Mustang Dynamic Vibrato provides extremely smooth vibrato action and wide pitch variation. The correct position of the vibrato bar is when the vibrato spring posts at either end under the bar are straight up and down. When lighter or heavier gauge strings are used, the tension may vary, causing the bar to move out of normal position. The adjustment to bring the bar back to correct position may be made by inserting an Allen wrench into the holes on the top of the bar and turning in the appropriate direction. Turning clockwise will move the bar toward the neck and counterclockwise will move the bar away from the neck. It may be necessary to make this adjustment more than once; retuning the strings after each adjustment.
If extremely light gauge strings are used, the tension may vary more than may be compensated by the bar tension adjustment screws. Correct tension may be restored by removing the strings and then the entire vibrato unit from the body. Remove, then, the two springs attached to the lower slot at the bottom of the vibrato posts and re-attach them to the slot immediately above. Replace the vibrato unit to the body, string and tune to standard pitch. It may be once again necessary to adjust the spring tension at the two posts with the Allen wrench. When not in use, vibrato handle may be removed by loosening the screw at the end of the bar."
"The Mustang Dynamic Vibrato provides extremely smooth vibrato action and wide pitch variation. The correct position of the vibrato bar is when the vibrato spring posts at either end under the bar are straight up and down. When lighter or heavier gauge strings are used, the tension may vary, causing the bar to move out of normal position. The adjustment to bring the bar back to correct position may be made by inserting an Allen wrench into the holes on the top of the bar and turning in the appropriate direction. Turning clockwise will move the bar toward the neck and counterclockwise will move the bar away from the neck. It may be necessary to make this adjustment more than once; retuning the strings after each adjustment.
If extremely light gauge strings are used, the tension may vary more than may be compensated by the bar tension adjustment screws. Correct tension may be restored by removing the strings and then the entire vibrato unit from the body. Remove, then, the two springs attached to the lower slot at the bottom of the vibrato posts and re-attach them to the slot immediately above. Replace the vibrato unit to the body, string and tune to standard pitch. It may be once again necessary to adjust the spring tension at the two posts with the Allen wrench. When not in use, vibrato handle may be removed by loosening the screw at the end of the bar."
Compare this with my setup tips available here. Fender's original instructions call for the trem bar to be parallel to the strings and for the posts to be perpendicular to the strings. This allows both upward and downward pitch bends. My setup instructions don't allow upward bends but better overall tuning stability. YRMV. Let me know what works!
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Mustang or Jaguar?

The answer to this question is of course “both,” but for those of you who are thinking about acquiring one of these less-common Fender guitars, here are some thoughts on the differences between the Jaguar and Mustang.
I currently own both a Jaguar and a Mustang. The Jaguar is a CIJ q-series (circa 2002-2004) which I bought used. I have made major modifications to the guitar, upgrading everything except the tuners and the wood to AVRI parts. This includes a Mustang bridge which, in my opinion, offers better tuning stability and playability. I also made modifications to the wiring to allow both phase and series-parallel switching. This wiring mod is outlined here. The rhythm circuit is stock.
The Mustang is a more recent CIJ s-series (circa 2006-2007) which I bought new. The guitar is essentially stock except for modifications to the wiring to allow series-parallel switching in addition to phase switching. This wiring mod is outlined here.
History
The Jaguar was introduced as Fender’s top-of-the-line model when production began in 1962. It was priced at $379.50 compared to the Jazzmaster at $349.50, the Stratocaster at $259.50, and the Telecaster at $209.50. The Mustang was intended as a student guitar when production began in 1964. It was priced at $189.50 compared to the Telecaster at $209.50, the Esquire at $169.50, and the Duo Sonic II at $159.50. With inflation the Jaguar would cost $2704.93 in 2010 dollars and the Mustang would cost $1350.68 in 2010 dollars. The Jaguar was designed for professionals and the Mustang for students who, Fender imagined, would eventually upgrade to a professional guitar. The student range of Fender guitars included the single-pickup Musicmaster II, dual-pickup Duo-Sonic II and the Mustang which was essentially a Duo-Sonic with a tremolo. Of course Fender’s marketing, especially for the Jaguar, was wishful thinking. Except for surf music in the early 1960s, the Jaguar and the Jazzmaster were largely ignored in favor of the more popular, and arguably more playable, Telecaster and Stratocaster. The Mustang was hugely successful as a student guitar, but as such was not generally regarded as a professional guitar. By the 1970s the Jaguar and Mustang (and Jazzmaster) had fallen out of favor and were neglected by Fender as corporate-minded CBS focused on the better-selling Stratocaster and Telecaster. By the late 1970s guitarists intent on subverting mainstream rock used Jaguars, Jazzmasters and Mustangs both because used models were less expensive than Stratocasters and Telecasters and because they were offbeat, quirky guitars that fit the aesthetics of alternative music. By the 1980s the Jazzmaster, Jaguar, and Mustang were taken out of production. In the late 1990s Fender USA reissued the Jaguar and Jazzmaster. All three guitars are currently available, being produced in the U.S., Mexico, and Japan, as well as other Asian factories under the Squier brand.
Neck
The Jaguar and Mustang have almost identical necks: 24” scale, 7.25” fingerboard radius, 22 frets, thin vintage-style fret wire, and a vintage “C” shape, vintage-style tuners, and in the case of Japanese-produced guitars, poly finishes. The ’65 reissue Mustang has a slab-style rosewood fingerboard while the Jaguar has a veneer cap fingerboard. There is very little difference between the two necks and I doubt I would be able to tell the difference if I swapped them.
Body
Both the Jaguar and the Mustang bodies have offset waists, although the offset is more pronounced on the Jaguar. The offset waists make the guitar more balanced when playing the guitar seated. Both guitars tend to tip neck up when seated, unlike a Stratocaster. The Mustang body is thin, measuring 1-1/2” while the Jaguar is 1-5/8”, like the Jazzmaster, Stratocaster and Telecaster. The difference is notable. The Mustang feels lighter and smaller in all dimensions. The Jaguar body is made of alder, the Mustang poplar. I don’t know if this makes much difference with regard to tone. The Mustang is much lighter. Both bodies are finished in poly, although the finish on the Mustang seems thinner than the Jaguar. An important difference between the guitars is that the Jaguar has contours for the forearm and body like the Stratocaster, while the ’65 Mustang has a slab body like the Telecaster. Fender added contours to the Mustang by the late 1960s. As a result of the body contours the Jaguar is more comfortable to play. While the necks are the same length, the Jaguar seems well balanced while the Mustang seems smaller and a bit cramped, although it is certainly not uncomfortable. Because both guitars are designed around a tailpiece/tremolo that is separate from the bridge, there is a significant amount of body behind the bridge compared to a Stratocaster or Telecaster. As a result the Mustang and Jaguar bodies seem large in comparison.
Controls
The Mustang has a master volume and master tone in addition to two DP3T switches for each pickup (on-off-on). The switches are located above the low E string which takes some getting used to. Another quirk is that the sliders operate parallel to the body. If both switches are in the on position in the same direction they are wired in-phase, if they are on in opposite directions they are wired out-of-phase. This produces a thinner sound compared to in-phase wiring. This is the only Fender guitar to have this as a stock wiring option.
The Jaguar has two separate circuits, lead and rhythm. The lead circuit consists of a master volume and master tone, a DPDT switch (on-off) for each pickup and the so-called “strangle-switch,” which adds a capacitor that functions as a high-pass filter. All three lead circuit switches are located on the lower bout. The rhythm circuit, activated via a DPDT switch on the upper bout, selects the neck pickup wired to a master volume and master tone which produces a darker tone and which allows the player to have a preset for the neck pickup. It seems complicated, but it really isn’t.
Tremolo
The Jaguar (and Jazzmaster which used the same design) and Mustang trems and bridges have gotten a bad rap mostly because they are less common and little more difficult to set up than a standard Stratocaster trem. It also seems that there are few shops that can do this correctly. Players unfamiliar with either trem also have unrealistic expectations about what they can do. These are not the equivalent of a Stratocaster trem much less a Floyd Rose. If you want to dive bomb you are going to be disappointed. I have a primer on setting up the Mustang trem here. There are similar sites for the Jaguar trem. Both operate on the principle of a bridge that floats in thimbles and a trem arm connected to a tailpiece which, balanced by a spring, lowers or raises tension on the strings. Either system set up well will not go out of tune. While many forums suggest the contrary, these trems do not require heavy gauge strings to function properly. All my guitars are set up with .010s.
The Jaguar trem is best for light vibrato (think surf music or rockabilly). However, the Mustang trem can be setup with heavy spring resistance to drop the strings a full major fourth and return to pitch in tune. In fact, I’ve heard the Mustang trem described as the Floyd Rose of the 1960s which is not much of an exaggeration.
The Jaguar trem has a longer string distance between the bridge and the tailpiece and a shallower break angle which some players argue creates less downward string tension on the bridge and thus results in strings jumping out of the saddle grooves more easily. The Mustang saddle pieces have only one deeper groove rather than the threaded steel and multiple grooves of the Jaguar saddle pieces. I think the Mustang bridge is an improvement over the Jaguar bridge and have installed a Mustang bridge on my Jaguar. Certainly Leo Fender conceived of his guitars as a continual progression in terms of design and the Mustang bridge was likely a response to problems with the Jazzmaster/Jaguar bridge. Some players opt to install a buzz stop to increase the break angle on the Jaguar bridge or a Mastery bridge to improve tuning stability and sustain.
One other advantage of the Jaguar tailpiece is that the strings are fed in from the rear of the tailpiece straight over the bridge while Mustang tailpiece/stop bar the strings are fed from the bridge side and loop under the tailpiece/stop bar before being fed over the bridge. The Jaguar tailpiece is simpler and quicker for restringing, and it allows you to use heavier string gauges without needing a 180 degree loop. On the Jaguar I have used a .050 and .060 as the lower two strings and tuned them a full octave below standard guitar tuning. The strings did not have to be bent and could be removed and reused easily.
Finally, adjusting the Jaguar trem is much easier than the Mustang trem. The adjustments for the Jaguar trem are a screw for spring tension and the sliding button for the string lock, both easily accessible from the face of the trem plate. The Mustang trem requires and Allen key to adjust the height of the stop bar and you need to remove the trem plate completely to adjust the spring tension to fit your playing style. Of course once you have it setup you don’t need to do this often, but it is more work to make adjustments.
Pickups
I have heard stock Jaguar pickups described as being very similar to Stratocaster pickups. This seems like a fair comparison, especially of the neck pickup. However the bridge pickup is noticeably weaker than a comparable Stratocaster pickup. I believe that this has a lot to do with the fact that the Jaguar bridge pickup is not angled whereas the Mustang (and Stratocaster and Telecaster) bridge pickup is angled. I think this results in less bottom end when using the bridge pickup alone on the Jaguar. Jaguar pickups also have the a metal “claw” that surrounds the pickup and, depending on who you believe, either concentrates the magnetic field under the strings or further reduces hum. I think the former is more likely. The stock wiring on the Jaguar includes 1meg pots which produces a more treble. I have experimented with 250k and 500k pots which produce a mellower tone, but have gone back to the stock 1meg pots.

(If only all Jaguars had angled bridge pickups!)
The pickups on the ’65 Mustang are lower output compared to the Jaguar and vintage Stratocaster pickups, but they sound great. There is a lot of snap and clarity with both the neck and bridge pickups. For a while I replaced the stock Mustang pickups with Fender Lace sensors but I realized how sterile they sounded and reinstalled the stock pickups. The volume and tone pots are both 250k. Both the neck and bridge pickups are angled in the Mustang and the pickup covers are solid, thus hiding the pole pieces.
Both Jaguar and Mustang pickups are reverse polarity/reverse wound so that when they are used together they act as a humbucker. This is true if they are wired in parallel or series.
Feel
In my opinion the Jaguar is a much more comfortable guitar to play than the Mustang. With body contours and better overall balance it is comfortable both sitting and standing. On the other hand, with its thinner poplar body the Mustang is much lighter than the Jaguar. With regard to playability, I find that the Mustang feels more cramped than the Jaguar. The Mustang tailpiece/stop bar is higher than the bridge and does not allow you to rest your palm on the body of the guitar. The switches are also located awkwardly above the strings. The trem arm can be too high if set up the trem with high spring tension. The Jaguar feels more thought out and comfortable. The switches are well located. Despite its 24” scale length, it feels like a big guitar and there is plenty of room for different hand positions.
Tone
Again this is subjective. I would describe the Jaguar’s tone as smooth and the Mustang’s tone as raw. I prefer the sound of the Mustang pickups. I think that because the Jaguar has been used primarily by alternative players since the 1970s, people have the impression that it produces a tone appropriate to alternative music, but I don’t think this is the case. Leo Fender designed the guitar as the flagship of the Fender line in 1962. Think maybe jazz or surf music. The Jaguar is a Cadillac, both in style and in tone. The Mustang on the other hand was a student guitar. It is simpler, cheaper and raw. It has significantly more twang than the Jaguar. Mustang pickups, while lower output, sound more alive than the Jaguar's.
Mods
The modifications I have made to my Jaguar and Mustang are mostly limited to wiring and pickups, but here are a few observations. The Mustang pickup cavities (and pickups) are shaped like Stratocaster pickups. This allows you to put in just about any single coil pickup without additional body routing. The Jaguar, by contrast, has pickup cavities that are approximately the size of the pickup covers and thus you cannot use Stratocaster pickups without modding either the pickups or the body. Lace sensors would fit, although I haven't tried this. The Jaguar controls includes four pots and four DPDT switches which allows for almost endless wiring mods, including putting in a powered preamp or even an effect in the various body cavities. That said the DP3T switches in the Mustang can be rewired to allow both phase switching and series/parallel switching without adding and additional switch.
Conclusion
After playing both guitars regularly for a few years I would say that I prefer the feel of the Jaguar and the tone of the Mustang.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Fender Mustang Dynamic Vibrato Setup
Here are a couple tips on setting up the Fender Mustang Dynamic Vibrato. My '65 reissue came with no instructions and I had to use the Great Gazoogle for guidance on setting up the vibrato. This vibrato unit is unique to the Mustang. Note that the Stratocaster, Jazzmaster and Jaguar vibratos are referred to as "tremolos" or "trems." I'll do the same here. The Mustang vibrato consists of a base plate, two threaded posts which go through two holes in the plate and screw into a stop bar which anchors the strings and the vibrato bar. Underneath the base plate are two springs that connect the posts with the plate and provide tension against the strings. There are two adjustments that the user can make to the vibrato.
The first is the height of the stop bar, which is raised and lowered via two Allen screws accessible through the top of the bar. Counterclockwise turns will raise the stop bar, clockwise turns will lower the stop bar. When I bought my Mustang the stop bar was raised pretty high, which resulted in an uncomfortable hand position (I was used to a Stratocaster tremolo which I have set up flush with the top of the body of the guitar). The stop bar can be adjusted up and down to adjust the position of the vibrato arm to make it more or less parallel with the top of the guitar body. Adjusting the bar up will decrease tension, adjusting the bar down will increase tension. You will have to re-tune the guitar after the adjustments are made.
Since I rarely use the vibrato, my preference is to have the highest tension on the vibrato as possible. I have adjusted the springs to give the most tension even though I string my guitar with .10s. This is akin to using all five tremolo springs in a Stratocaster and screwing in the trem claw as far as possible. This has the effect of increasing the sustain. Since I rarely use the vibrato, this is definitely a plus with the Mustang as the light body produces less sustain than a Strat or a Tele. I also screw the stop bar down until there is barely enough room for the strings to pass under it. The disadvantage of this approach is that you really cannot use the vibrato bar. Since the stop bar is screwed down the vibrato bar will be really high and the tension will be very high as well. When the stop bar is higher and the tension lower, you can use your palm to rock the bar for a gentle vibrato, a nice effect.
A couple final tips. On the posts just below the threads there is another groove similar to the ones for the tension springs. This groove serves as the knife edge for the base plate. Make sure that the edge of the base plate is resting in this groove and not on the post threads. I usually have to pull up on the stop bar before I start bringing the strings up to tension in order to make sure that the base plate is in this groove. Finally, when you reassemble the vibrato, use a tiny bit of grease on the post threads to ensure easy adjustment.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Monday, January 19, 2009
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Fender Mustang Rewiring I
Here's another diagram for rewiring a Mustang. This layout has the advantage of not requiring the Fender S-1 switch which is not cheap. You can get by with rewiring the switches only. The neck switch positions are off, on in-phase, on out-of-phase while the bridge positions are off, parallel, series. The one aspect of this layout that I don't like, as with the original Mustang wiring, is that you can't select the pickups with one switch.
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Fender Mustang Rewiring II
Here’s a diagram for rewiring a Fender Mustang. The original Mustang wiring included two DP3T switches which allows both pickups to be turned off and on, either in phase or out of phase. With a two pickup guitar I have always like having the additional option of putting the pickups in series or parallel. It is possible to have all these options with the stock DP3T switches, and I will eventually post a diagram which shows how to do this, but after playing my Mustang for a year I realized that it is more convenient to be able to select the pickups from one switch rather than two. The diagram above allows this. The switch above the bridge pickup allows you to select the bridge pickup (neck position), both pickups (middle position) or the neck pickup (neck position). The switch above the neck pickup, as with the original wiring allows you to turn the neck pickup on in-phase (neck position), off (middle position), or on out-of-phase (bridge position). Series/parallel selection is located on the volume pot by way of a Fender S-1 switch which I bought from Darren Riley’s Guitar and Amp Shop . Use the S-1 Jazz bass knob to match the Mustang knob. These switches are 4PDT. Up is parallel, down is series. When the pickups are in series, the DP3T switch above the neck pickup still functions to allow phase selection while in series. I have only found one schematic of the S-1 switch online, located here. This diagram, while for a Stratocaster, shows the functioning of the S-1 switch clearly.The other modification I made was to swap out the stock Mustang pickups for Fender-Lace sensors I salvaged after rewiring my Stratocaster. The original Mustang pickups are low output. I have tried both silver (modeled on a 70s single coil) and blue (modeled on a 50s humbucker) and settled on a silver sensor in the neck position and blue in the bridge position. These mods have the advantage of retaining the stock look of the Mustang. In rewiring the Mustang I also removed all the original brass shielding which was located in the control and pickup cavities and hard-wired the ground lead from the volume pot to the output jack.
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